Merz b. Schwanen
Merz b. Schwanen has been making knitwear in Albstadt, Germany since 1911 — the same loopwheel machines, the same unhurried approach. The Rake stocks the full range in Newcastle and online: loopwheeled T-shirts, sweatshirts, underwear and knitwear, all in stock now.
The T-shirt from The Bear
If you've watched The Bear, you've seen the 215 — the heavyweight loopwheeled tee Carmy wears throughout the series. It's the piece that made a lot of people stop and ask what he was wearing. We stock it in Newcastle and online, Australia-wide.
What is loopwheel construction?
Most T-shirts are cut from flat fabric and sewn together, leaving seams that twist over time. Loopwheel construction knits the fabric in a continuous tube on a slow, vintage machine, giving it natural elasticity and a softness flat-knit cotton can't replicate. Merz operates some of the last working loopwheel machines in Germany — they run slowly, producing only a few metres of fabric an hour, which is why the garments cost what they cost and last as long as they do.
Revived, not reinvented
In 2011, Gitta and Peter Plotnicki revived Merz b. Schwanen, returning to the same century-old loopwheel machines and the same commitment to making things properly. Their GOOD ORIGINALS line — including the 215 — is made entirely in Germany; GOOD BASICS is made in Portugal to the same standard. Both use organic cotton.
See it in person
What T-shirt does Carmy wear in The Bear?
The 215 — a heavyweight loopwheeled crewneck in white or natural, 7.2oz organic cotton, made on century-old machines in Germany. We stock it at The Rake.
How does the sizing run?
European sizing with a classic, slightly boxy fit. Most people find their usual size works well. Email cody@therake.com.au for specific advice.
What's the difference between the 215 and 214?
Both are 7.2oz loopwheeled tees — the 215 has a classic fit, the 214 a more relaxed, oversized fit. Same machines, same cotton, different silhouette.
Still not sure on sizing?
Email us